Anatoli Boukreev (January 16, 1958 – December 25, 1997) was an ethnic-Russian Kazakhstani mountaineer who made ascents of seven of the fourteen Eight-thousander peaks, i.e., peaks above 8,000 m (26,000 ft), without supplemental oxygen. He made 18 successful ascents on peaks above 8000 m from 1989 through 1997. Boukreev had a reputation as an elite mountaineer in international climbing circles, (which included summitting K2 in 1993 and Mount Everest via the North Ridge route in 1995) but became more widely known for his role in saving climbers during the deadly 1996 climbing season on Everest. In 1997 Boukreev was killed in an avalanche during a winter ascent of Annapurna in Nepal.

The major highlights of Boukreev's climbing career are as follows:
* 1987
Lenin Peak (7,134 m)- First solo ascent
* 1989
April 15 Kangchenjunga (8,556 m) - new route with Second Soviet Himalaya Expedition
April 30 - May 2 Kangchenjunga - first traverse of the four 8,000 m summits of the massif
* 1990
April Mount McKinley - Cassin Ridge route
May Mount McKinley - West Rib route
* 1991
May 10 Dhaulagiri - new route on the west wall with First Kazakhstan Himalaya Expedition
October 7 Mount Everest - South Col route
* 1993
May 14 Mount McKinley (6,193 m)
July 30 K2 (8,611 m) Abruzzi route.
* 1994
April 29 Makalu II (8,460 m)
May 15 Makalu (8,476 m)
* 1995
May 17 Mount Everest - North Ridge route
June 30 Peak Abai (4,010 m) - guide for President of Kazakhstan
October 8 Dhaulagiri (8,176 m) - fastest ascent record (17h 15m)
December 8 Manaslu (8,156 m) with Second Kazakhstan Himalaya Expedition
* 1996
May 10 Mount Everest - South Col route
May 17 Lhotse - solo ascent, speed record
September 25 Cho Oyu (8,201 m) with Third Kazakhstan Himalaya Expedition
October 9 North summit of Shishapangma (8,008 m)
* 1997
April 24 Mount Everest (8,848 m)
May 23 Lhotse (8,501 m)
July 7 Broad Peak (8,047 m) - solo ascent
July 14 Gasherbrum II (8,035 m) - solo ascent