First ascent of Chamsen (7,017m) in Eastern Karakoram range
A small Indo-British team of Susan Jensen from Scotland, Divyesh and Vineeta Muni (Mumbai) and Chamonix-based mountain guide Victor Saunders has made the first ascent of Chamsen, one of few remaining previously untouched 7,000ers in India.
Chamsen (7,017m) lies in the Saser Kangri Group of India's East Karakoram, and the successful climb puts Jensen, who has spent the last four-five months mountaineering and trekking in India, into a very select class of British females to have made the first ascent of a 7,000m peak.
The original aim of the expedition also included 7,287m Plateau Peak, but this was climbed for the first time in July by an Indian expedition from the Kolkata section of the Himalayan Club- http://www.indianmountaineers.com/forum/15-news-and-updates/905-first-ascent-of-plateau-peak-7287m-in-eastern-karakoram-range.html
The Indo-British team planned to make the first crossing of the Sakang Col (6,150m), southeast of Plateau Peak, and descend to the remote North Shukpa Kunchang Glacier, which rises to Chamsen, and also gives access to the eastern flanks of Plateau Peak.
To this effect the Indian members of the team employed six support Sherpas; Chedar, Dawa, Ang Dorji, Karma, Mingma and Samgyal. Also part of the expedition was Andy Parkin.
The col proved to be the key to the expedition, and after much reconnaissance and several attempts was crossed on the 10 August. Descending the glacial cirque on the far (northeast) side, a valley between Saser Kangri II (7,518m) and III (7,495m) that presents high walls with overhanging serac barriers, the team established Chamsen base camp at 5,600m. After establishing camps at 6,000m and 6,500m, at 10:30am on the 21 August the team reached the summit via the west ridge.
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